Climbing the “Lost Child” of Aurora Province

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All our climbing & camping gear is loaded onto the truck and we climb along like cargo. It’s a bumpy ride along the way but we finally see our quarry hiding behind the clouds. Mt. Anacuao, meaning “lost child” in Dumagat, in Aurora Province beckons us into her arms and we are excited at the prospect of climbing her.  Base camp for the climb is Bulawan Falls and we are busily preparing for our climb to the summit the following day.

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The roughness of the climb is evident right away as we snake our way along the river. Boulders everywhere of all sizes, moss covered and slippery, slipping in and out of the canopy and crisscrossing the river. It’s a real challenge trying to get a good grip among the rocks and the riverbed with the fast current. I wedge my feet in between the rocks to get a better grip but its squeezing my poor bunions to death. All I keep thinking was that I used the wrong shoes and that my feet would be wet the entire climb.

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Real glad to get away from the rocks pounding my feet but my worries quickly disappear as I see our next hurdle, a steep ascent up a series of 3 hills. Towering trees draped with thick vines in an endless expanse of jungle. Surely this is better than the rocks and I quickly ascend up the scraggly trail and latch on to the vines and dirt. I wanted to keep my pace steady and take it step by step while trying to get into a rhythm. Focused intently on the trail, we were doing quick time according to Arse and that gave me some relief. It was all going swimmingly until I started getting clumsy and tripping all over the place. Inch by inch it was getting to be an ordeal trying to lift my feet and my mind kept wandering.

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We are now entering the realm of mossy forest, you feel a different microclimate with the cool breeze and humidity. A quick check of my watch and we’re at 1100 meters elevation or 3,600 feet above sea level.  Tree trunks are now covered with a thick layer of green hairy moss of all shapes. Mangled & twisted tree limbs and roots litter the trail like a scene from Lord of the Rings. Light rain comes and pelts your skin with icy intensity and the fog rolls in. The breeze picks up and it has a lighter feel on your nose. A sudden break from the trees and I find myself in a clearing of long cogon grass, we’ve reached the site of Camp 1 and it took 8 hours to get here. All 3 of us pick a spot below the ridge and just admire the view for half an hour. Arse comes over and calls out “Welcome to Mt Anacuao. Congratulations, you made it”.

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A quick breakfast and we were preparing for our climb back down. The thing with mountaineering is that they always tell you about the way up the summit and the exhilaration of reaching it. What they fail to let you know is that the descent from the summit is always the most difficult part of the entire climb.  This is where every inch of your body feels every bump, slide, twitch, twig that you encounter. The ground is damp and muddy with a lot of dead leaves and hidden roots. I do a spread-eagle with my back turned to get a better grip of the vines and roots for the steep descent. Everything is conspiring to grab a hold of you along the trail: Spiky rattan vines called “tekateka” that grip your shirt, thorny palm fronds that grab your hands, broken tree limbs that look like spears and vines that coil up around your ankles. Frustration starts to set in as there seems to be an endless array of trails still to navigate.

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Another 30 minutes of dodging the river and we finally glimpse the bridge to Bulawan Falls. Home at last, home at last! It was a grand adventure and Mt. Anacuao was a worthy opponent indeed. As we drive back to our car, I give another glance back to the mountain and I see her smiling at me. I know I have unfinished business with her and I will be back again Ms. Anacuao.

Crossing Bessang Pass and ” The Longest Bridge “

There are a lot of hidden routes going into the Cordillera’s from all directions. A couple of years ago, we wanted to pass an alternate route going to Sagada via Ilocos Sur that was suggested by a friend from La Union. The route is going thru Tagudin, Ilocos Sur passing by Bessang Pass thru Cervantes Valley and ending up in Sagada. I did some research on Bessang Pass and found out a major military engagement occurred in 1945. The pass was defended by the Japanese forces of Gen. Yamashita , The Tiger of Malaya, against the advancing forces of the Americans.

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One of the rusty hanging bridges along the way to the Pass. This one is near Barangay Malayo. 

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The roads were twisty and the concrete was in immaculate condition and hardly any cars. This is the dream road for anyone on a motorcycle. 

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Admiring the view near the top of the pass. Deep Valleys and Gorges are a staple on this trip

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Do I need to say more?

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Once we negotiated the pass, we ended up in Cervantes Valley and found out the bridge was under construction. Luckily we brought our 4WD and crossed the river but during rainy season this is un-passable because of the height of the water. I came across an article this year and it mentioned the completion of the longest bridges in the Philippines in the town of Cervantes. It turns out the bridge is called the Aluling Bridge and it’s infamous for being the “longest” bridge in the province of Ilocos. The structure is only 180 meters long but its length comes from the record it took to complete construction of the bridge. After nearly 4 decades ( 35 years ) and six presidents, the Aluling Bridge was finally completed on May 2013. Now thats progress !

Scenes from a Mongolian Roadside

On a long ride across endless fields of steppes, we had to stop to stretch our legs. In Mongolia, you don’t see gleaming complexes of gas stations and 7Elevens. We settle for a nomadic roadside stand.

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How about freshly picked strawberries & mushrooms straight from the field?

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I walked over and i saw this pile of roadkill or so I thought. Turns out to be entrails of a sheep and I couldn’t figure why it was there. Was it for good luck or to look into the future?

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You don’t see this everyday, a Mongolian Steppe Eagle perched on my shoulder. It was a heavy bird and it’s beak and talons were really sharp. I could feel the power and grip of those talons digging into me.

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And of course, a 100 foot tall gleaming statue of Genghis Khan surveying his entire country. What more can you ask for in a roadside stand? Only in Mongolia

Cape Engano

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The northernmost tip of Luzon is called Cape Engano in Palaui Island off Sta. Ana Cagayan.  A turn of the century lighthouse still stands guard over the Cape with a commanding view of the Dos Hermanos & Camiguin Island in the distance. If you’re lucky, one can catch the misty spout of Humpback Whales just off the rocky shores. Or you can fish right off the cape and troll for dolphinfish and sailfish in one of the best sportfishing grounds in the country. CNN recently named the beach near the lighthouse as one of the Top 100 Beaches in Asia

Playground of Dolphins & Whales

 

 

 

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There’s no better sight to see than watching a school of dolphins bow-riding in front of a boat. I have experienced many encounters with these likable mammals and it never gets old. On our exploration to the Babuyan Islands last year, we were lucky enough to see 3 kinds of dolphins : the spinner, bottle-nose and the rough toothed, which is a very rare specie. 8 species of cetaceans have been recorded here in the Babuyanes including the Humpback Whale.

The one thing that we couldn’t predict was to have an encounter of a lifetime with a school of whales IN THE WATER! We were on the lookout for Humpback whales when we chanced upon a group of short finned Pilot Whales logging in the water. The weather conditions were spectacular with clear skies, calm seas and excellent water visibility. The whales stayed close to our boats and seemed comfortable with our presence so we decided to take a chance and quietly slipped into the water.  

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The water was so clear and we could hear the high pitched squeaking of the whales. We tried to keep finning quietly so we could get close and not spook them to swim away. The squeaks kept getting louder and we knew they were close so we kept on swimming. I excitedly swam underwater and held my breath but the whales just stayed out of my sight. I went up for air and I could see their dorsal fins sticking out and they looked so close. Alas, it seemed like they were just playing with us and the whales kept their secrets for another day.  Nevertheless, AN AMAZING EXPERIENCE that i will never forget. 

 

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Just so you know, here is a poster issued by the Dept. of Agriculture on the types of dolphins & whales that inhabit the waters of the Philippines. Yes, there are Killer Whales & Blue Whales here. Put another 2 in my bucket list. 

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Clock of the Mountains

There are many kinds of Hornbills that inhabit the jungles of the Philippines. The Rufous Hornbill or Kalaw are gregarious and sociable birds that I have seen many times while exploring Aurora Province. They are seen congregating in large groups in tall trees and squawking to their hearts content. Our guides often referred to the Kalaw as their “clock of the mountains” – for their penchant to call out at certain times of the day – at 12 noon and at 5pm. ( I’m not kidding )

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These are my favorite birds and I love them for their sociable nature, majestic silhouette during flight and of course that ridiculously large knobbed beak on their heads. Indigenous tribes in the Cordilleras have used their beaks as part of their elaborate headdresses reserved for the chieftain. Hunters have trapped them for food and the lucrative pet trade. They are colorful birds and is the closest thing we have to the South American Toucan. 

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